The beautiful south-east – Sicily at its finest

Baroque towns, vineyard landscapes and the unhurried pleasures of Sicilian life

Touching on the heart and soul of every traveller, Sicily is a feeling, a sweet sensation, whose power lingers on long after you’ve left.

A compulsory stop of the 18th c. Gran Tour, Italy’s biggest island resonates around the world for its profound history – from the Greeks to the Romans, Phoenicians to Byzantines, Normans and Arabs, everyone left a mark of their stay, blending smoothly with the finest Baroque architecture, where intricate layers of decoration astound and astonish. A varied land combining superb sandy beaches, lush nature reserves and bewildering, wide-open vistas, its delicious, authentic food and wine culture also defines its immense appeal.

Its melodious charm resounding everywhere, the beautiful south east of the island is Sicily at its most seductive, its unique aura offering the ultimate Sicilian escape.

Syracuse

The timeless beauty of the island is felt in the city of Syracuse (Siracusa), once the biggest site in the ancient world. Its glorious past is best seen in the unique quarter of Ortygia: getting lost among its maze of quaint alleys, especially around Via della Maestranza, Piazza Archimede or Piazza Duomo, reveals its sublime prominence.

Find time to visit Palazzo Bellomo and its eclectic art collection, the 7th c Duomo, 13th c. Castello Maniace, then gaze out to sea, the infinity of the horizon your faithful companion. See a show at the 5th c. BC, exceptional Teatro Greco on mainland Syracuse and start dreaming: immersed within the Neapolis archaeological park, this also includes the mysterious Garden of Paradise limestone quarry. Do not miss the Ortigia Sound System electronic music festival, and see traditions come alive on 13th December, where celebrations for Santa Lucia transform the city in a big feast that includes stunning fireworks.

A cinematic discovery - Val di Noto

Sometimes disaster causes rebirth and re-joined energies find way towards a novel era. The terrible 1693 earthquake devastated buildings from Catania to Ragusa, but also contributed to the renaissance that has put the island on the agenda of Baroque marvels.

Val di Noto, as it’s known, is a sweet melody of cinematic places that defy belief. Noto, Ragusa, Modica, Scicli, Palazzolo Acreide, Caltagirone, Militello and Ispica are UNESCO sites that were rebuilt in the 17th c., representing pure Sicilian Baroque, an elaborate, intricate style with gargoyles and stunning decorations that is proudly preserved and strongly looked after

See the world from a hill - Ragusa and Modica

The sight of Ragusa is unique: made up by Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla, each perched on its hilltop, the two sides are divided by a deep ravine, and yet share similar echoes of the past, combined with 17th c. buildings. Ibla forms the old town and that’s where you’ll find the finest grey stone houses and prestigious palazzi. Admire immaculate Piazza del Duomo and the 18th c. Duomo di San Giorgio, with its superb neoclassical dome, then sit at a café and watch the locals, while indulging in a delicious aperitivo.

Chocolate lovers will find Modica’s IGP chocolate a treat: its production active ever since 1746, indulge while exploring the city’s medieval buildings that rise on either side of a gorge. Visit the Cathedral of San Giorgio in Modica Alta, braving the 164-step staircase and the Cathedral of San Pietro, along with 18th c. Palazzo Polara and 19th c. Palazzo Castro Grimaldi, while taking an evening stroll to mingle with the locals and soak in the spectacular atmosphere.

Baroque supreme - Noto

Driving along quiet roads flanked by hazelnut trees, the journey to Noto, the gateway to Baroque marvels, is delightful. Among the many churches and palazzi, what may look like a film set is, in fact, a thriving town that is best viewed when the sunset afterglow dons its shade of ochre and red-gold, enveloping every dwelling.

Visit in May to experience the splendid Infiorata, held since 1980, the stunning images arranged with petal flowers creating an amazingly colourful backdrop to the numerous Baroque palaces that adorn the city. Palazzo Ducezio and its oval-shaped Sala degli Specchi (the room of mirrors) are stunning, while Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata, with its ornate balconies and interiors, is unique. Stroll along elegant Corso Vittorio Emanuele while enjoying a delicious gelato or Sicilian granita or sipping local Moscato di Noto and exquisite Nero d’Avola wine – the aura of the place will capture your soul.

A hidden treasure – Scicli

The ceramic, glimmering stones that make up Scicli give this town perched on a hill a feeling of authenticity, much loved by artists and photographers. Perhaps here lies the most authentic soul of Baroque Sicily, seen in the wealth of churches such as San Giovanni Evangelista, San Bartolomeo or San Michele Arcangelo, and especially palaces like Bonelli Patané, Beneventano or Porcelli Battaglia.

Most buildings are adorned with such eminent Baroque features that even corner stones become pieces of marvel; grasping its powerful essence is a game of white on white, the shades descending upon the visitors in a rhythm of soft colour palettes. Stroll along Via Francesco Penna to marvel at its harmony and enjoy the places where the local film series Inspector Montalbano was shot. Here it’s all about the tranquil Sicilian lifestyle: pay a visit and you’ll enter this lovely paradise.

Mosaics aplenty - Villa Romana del Casale

Known for the richness of its mosaics, decorating the floors of almost every room, the Villa Romana del Casale is a staggering UNESCO-listed site close to Piazza Armerina. The biggest attraction in the south east of the island, this lavish building allegedly belonged to Emperor Marcus Aurelius Maximianus. Its exceptional state of preservation is certainly due to a 12th c. landslide that kept it covered for around 700 years.

Excavation works started in the 1950s and, since then, its glorious past has made it a prime point of interest. Picture four interconnected groups of buildings that spread on a hillside, with mosaics covering approximately 3,500 square metres, displaying a richness in polychromy, a variety of vivid depictions and a freshness in the portrayals so exceptional that make them the finest Roman-era in situ mosaics anywhere in the world.

Life is good at the beach

Wherever you’ll go in Sicily, you won’t be far from splendid, turquoise waters that edge on the surreal, their bright colours simply stunning. The south-east is where you’ll find some of the most spectacular beaches, such as the golden sands of Fontane Bianche by Syracuse, or the sensational Vendicari Nature Reserve. A protected, 7 km-long stretch that is a paradise for snorkelling and bird watching, it is a symphony that includes San Lorenzo, Calamosche, Eloro and Marianelli beaches.

The Tonnara beach is evocative, the old tuna-fishing establishment adding a special touch to a perfect blue horizon or walk along the several routes that overlook pristine waters. Other splendid beauties count Portopaio di Capo Passero and Isola delle correnti, a wild, unspoilt island located at the most southerly tip of Sicily. Santa Maria del Focallo is another major attraction, a stretch of white sand overlooking the Mediterranean that offers calm and tranquillity. The rocky coves of Porto Ulisse and Ciriga are also much loved, the crystalline waters ideal for snorkelling and relaxing at the beach. There really is no end to this parade of stellar beaches!

A joyful act of resistance – discover Sicilian wine

Counting as one of Europe’s most dynamic wine industries, Sicilian wine production dates back to 4,000 BC. Its dry, warm climate and a coastal breeze – which reduce possible disease – offer a suitable ground for traditional and organic farming alike. You’ll find three wine productions areas in the south-east of the region: Cerasuolo di Vittoria/Vittoria, Noto and Eloro, with three indigenous red grapes throughout – Nero d’Avola, Frappato and Nerello Mascalese.

The high temperatures in the south contribute to the creation of the only DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, with Nero d’Avola and Frappato grapes. A wine of finesse, it is produced in the rosso and classico versions, requiring 8 and 18 months of ageing respectively. Other varieties include Catarratto, Grillo, Etna Rosso, Etna Bianco, Perricone and white Zibibbo, an ancient vine that originated in North Africa. Their distinct flavours and tannin variations blend full, soft and harmonious flavours, varying from citrus and fruity tones to peppery and nutty.

A tasting session, perhaps visiting the places where the vines grow and are harvested, is the best way to enjoy these prized varieties. I’d suggest Occhipinti Vineyard. Today, it covers 23 hectares in the heart of Sicily’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine region, with an average of 6,000 vines per hectare.

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Baglio Occhipinti